Frequently Asked Questions

Adopting a cat is exciting! However, it also can be a challenge for your new kitty to adjust to a new home and family. By preparing ahead of time and following a few protocols, you can help ease your cat’s transition to its new life.

Gather Supplies

Before you take your cat home, it’s important to have the following items on hand:

• Cat carrier
• Cat litter and litter box (If you know that the cat has a preference, start with that type of litter.)
• Food (It’s best to continue with the food the cat is currently eating and then gradually transition to your food of choice.)
• Food and water bowls
• Treats
• Cat bed and/or hutch
• Scratching post (If you don’t know the cat’s preference, it’s best to have a tall, sturdy vertical post as well as a horizontal scratcher.)
• Toys (Note:  It’s important that toys be large enough that they cannot be accidentally swallowed by the cat. Wand toys should never be left unattended, as some cats ingest strings or ropes.)
•  Breakaway Collar with an ID tag (Breakaway collars have a special buckle that pops open when a certain amount of pressure is applied. The automatic release of the breakaway collar prevents strangulation or serious injury if the collar gets snagged.) 
• Brush for grooming

Start Off Small

Adjusting to a new environment can be overwhelming for a cat, especially one who is shy or fearful. Cats are masters at hiding and a shy cat could evade you for days if hiding spots are available, which will limit your ability to interact with your new kitty. Therefore, it’s best to limit the space your new cat has access to at first and to make sure there is no place for the kitty to go that is inaccessible to you, e.g., under a bed or dresser. A small room – even a bathroom – is a good place to use as a “safe room.” 

The “safe room” should have food, water, a litter box, a scratching post, and some type of enclosure (a carrier, a hutch, etc.) that provides your cat some privacy. It’s also good to provide a few toys for play. However, it’s best not to leave the cat unattended with wand toys, as some kitties swallow strings, which can result in a serious – even emergency – health risk.

Build a Positive Relationship

Let your cat have some time alone in the room at first and then start spending time with them, following a few tips during visits:

• Always approach the cat at their level. 
• Speak softly and avoid staring directly into their eyes.
• Stay with the cat during feedings so they associate you with the food – something positive.
• Try playing with interactive toys.
• If the cat wants to interact with you, great! However, if they want to keep their distance or even stay in their hideaway, that’s OK, too. 
• Reward the cat with treats, soft praise, and a gentle pet after positive interactions.
• Most importantly, let the cat set the pace, so they learn that they have control of their new environment. 

Once the cat is comfortable in the room, walking around, and greeting you at the door, etc., you can expand their access to other parts of your home. This could take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks.

Ensure Adequate Food Intake

Cats who are stressed tend to eat less and sometimes stop eating altogether. It’s vital that the new cat continues to eat as they adjust to their new home. If possible, provide the cat the same food they were eating in the shelter or foster home from which they came. You can make the food more enticing by adding something even tastier, like a lickable treat or baby food, to the cat food.

Once the cat is eating regularly, if you prefer to feed it different food, you may begin transitioning to the new food. Changing the food too quickly could cause gastrointestinal upset, so it’s best to do so over about a week’s time. For the first two days, try feeding 75% of the kitty’s current food with 25% of the new food; after that, try mixing 50% of the current food with the new food; then use 75% of the new food with 25% of the current cat food. By the seventh day, you can move to 100% of the new, preferred food. If you have concerns about the cat’s appetite (or lack thereof), it’s best to consult your veterinarian. 

Adopting a new cat is exciting! However, bringing a new cat into a home with an existing resident cat can be challenging. Your resident cat is likely to see the new kitty as a threat who is coming into “their” territory, rather than as a friend. The new cat is entering a totally new environment and also adjusting to a new family, including another feline. Planning and patience are required in order to make the transition successful – for both cats.

Consider Your Resident Cat’s Needs

• Age and energy - Adopting a cat who is about the same age and who has a comparable energy level as your current cat is a good idea. An older cat is unlikely to enjoy the energy a new kitten brings into the home and may be annoyed by the younger cat’s desire for constant play, for example.
• Experience with other cats - When looking for a new cat, it’s helpful to seek out one who is known to like and to get along with other cats.

Take Your Time

It is vital to take the introduction process slowly in order for it to be successful. “Slowly” means at the pace of the cat who exhibits the greater level of stress (this could be the new cat or the resident cat). While it may be tempting to rush the process, a patient approach has a greater chance of success and a happier household in the long run.

Separate the Cats and Keep Out of Sight

The resident cat and the new cat should not be allowed to see one another at first. They will begin to acclimate to one another via scent.

• A room of one’s own - The new cat should be kept in a single, small room when it first comes home. Ideally this is a room where the resident cat does not spend a lot of time, so it won’t feel displaced. In a small home, the bathroom may be the best place for the new kitty to start out. Keeping the new cat and resident cat in separate spaces is key because it helps the new kitty adjust to its environment and allows the resident cat to get used to having a new cat in the home – before they meet. While the cats won’t see one another, they will smell each other and be well aware of the other’s presence in the home. (See FAQ “Introducing a New Cat to Your Home.”)
• Swapping belongings - While the cats are separated try exchanging bedding and toys so that they get accustomed to one another’s scent. 
• Trading spaces - Before the cats meet, allow them time alone to explore the other cat’s space. 
  • If you have a larger space, try putting the resident cat in the bathroom, then moving the new cat from its room to another part of the house. Then let the resident cat into the new cat’s “safe room,” shut the door, and let it explore. 
  • If your space is on the smaller side and you are keeping the new cat in your bathroom, you may need to put the new cat in its carrier to move it, then put the resident cat in the bathroom before letting the new kitty out to explore the larger space.

Create a Positive Association with Food

As they become accustomed to each other’s scents, the cats will undoubtedly be curious about one another. One or both cats may feel stress and/or fear, as well. Therefore, it’s important to associate something positive with the cats’ initial interactions. Food is great for this purpose.

• Start by feeding the cats on opposite sides of the door to the new cat’s “safe room.” Over time, as long as the cats are eating happily and not showing signs of stress, move the food bowls closer to the door. By smelling the food and the other cat at the same time, a positive association will be created – before they ever see each other.
• Once the cats are eating peacefully on opposite sides of the door, you can introduce a sturdy pet gate or baby gate (or even a screen door) in the doorway of the new cat’s “safe room.” The gate should be covered by a towel or sheet so the cats cannot see one another, at first.
  • Lift the cover briefly so the cats see each other while they are eating. As long as the cats are not showing signs of stress, you may increase the length of time the gate is uncovered. If either cat shows signs of stress, cover the gate again.
  • Treats also may be used to help acclimate the cats to one another while they are separated by a gate. Uncover the gate, toss each cat a treat, and then cover the gate again. Repeat this 5-10 times in a row, several times each day, keeping the indirect interactions brief and positive. Over time, the treats may be tossed closer to the gate to bring the cats closer together.
• Look for signs that the cats are growing comfortable with each other, including:
  • Eating food or treats in the presence of the other cat
  • Touching noses, going paw-to-paw under the gate, or rubbing up against one another through the gate
  • Ignoring the other cat and focusing on its own activity
• Be aware of signs of stress, such as consistent hissing or growling at the other cat, body language (tail swishing, ears flattened against the head, hair on the back or tail raised, etc.), and/or slinking or running away from the other cat at the gate. In these cases, take a step back and proceed more slowly with the process.

Time Together Under Supervision

Once the cats have grown comfortable with each other separated by the gate, they are ready to spend time together without the gate – but with supervision. 

• Be prepared with treats and toys to distract each cat from the other. 
• If either cat loses interest in its food/toy and/or shows any sign of stress or aggression (e.g. hissing or growling), separate the cats immediately. 
• The in-person interactions should be repeated, with greater frequency and for increasing lengths of time, with the goal of ending on a high note each time. 
• After they have had repeated, positive interactions, the cats are ready for unsupervised time together.

Arranging for a Long-Term, Positive Relationship

To ensure lasting success in your cats’ relationship, make sure to set up your home environment so that the cats don’t feel they are competing for resources. For example, there should be at least one litter box per cat and each should have its own food bowl. It’s also good to have a number of scratching posts/pads, toys, and beds or other places to rest. Having one or more cat trees or other elevated resting spots also is key, as a perch gives cats a feeling of safety.

Finally, make sure that each cat gets adequate attention from you and the other humans in the household.

Resources

See this “How to Introduce Cats” video from animal advocate, cat behavior and wellness expert, and New York Times best-selling author, Jackson Galaxy. 

Kittens are best off when they are adopted in pairs or into a home with a friendly resident kitten or young cat. For this reason, rescue organizations typically have a “kittens in pairs” policy. There are numerous reasons why kittens benefit from having a buddy:

Finding Comfort in Friendship

It is easier for kittens to adjust to a new home and family if they have a littermate or friend with them, just as humans feel more comfortable trying something new when they have a friend sharing the experience. 

Learning Skills Through Observation

Kittens learn by watching what other cats do. Having another kitten around will help them learn skills, such as grooming and using the litter box.

Staying Entertained and Avoiding Trouble

Kittens have a lot of energy and seek constant stimulation. Adopting two will ensure that they provide entertainment and enrichment for one another and help prevent unwanted outcomes. For example, a kitten on it own:

• Is likely to become bored and may make mischief to entertain itself. This “entertainment” can entail climbing up curtains, chewing on plants and electrical cords, scratching the furniture, and other destructive behavior. 
• Will seek attention and stimulation from people, sometimes demanding more time and energy than their human companions have to give.
• Is likely to keep their humans up at night, racing around, jumping, pouncing and engaging in other “hunting” behaviors.

Focusing Play Aggression and Learning Boundaries

Kitten play naturally includes biting, scratching, and wrestling. In pairs, kittens can teach one another good boundaries for their play aggression. Without a feline friend, kittens will want to bite and wrestle with their human companions, a habit that can be problematic, especially when the kitten becomes an adult.

Accommodating an Adult Cat

A single kitten typically is not a good companion for an adult cat. A kitten’s energy level and desire for constant play can be too much for an older cat, causing it to become irritated and overwhelmed. Likewise, a kitten may become frustrated by an adult cat who does not want to play. A pair of kittens will entertain one another, while the older cat can relax and observe.

Ensuring a Good Match

Adopting a bonded pair, whether littermates or just good friends, is more likely to result in a harmonious pairing than adopting a single kitten and introducing a new cat later on.

VIEW OUR PDF HERE!

If you find a litter of kittens in your backyard or in a vacant lot, Angus & Friends may be able to help you place them in foster homes and get them adopted.

There are two main factors that determine our ability to provide assistance – the age of the kittens and how well socialized they are. Generally, Angus & Friends is able to help place kittens who are 8 weeks or older and friendly with humans. 

Kittens younger than 8 weeks require a commitment of time and energy that, unfortunately, Angus & Friends is unable to provide due to our limited resources. (Note: As a rough guide, kittens who are 8 weeks old generally weigh about 2 pounds, are playful and coordinated, and are eating solid food confidently.)

Kittens need to interact with people at a young age in order to be socialized to humans. Typically, if kittens are not socialized by 8 weeks of age, they will be afraid of people and not good candidates for adoption. While it is possible to socialize these older kittens, it takes a significant amount of time and effort. Again, unfortunately, Angus & Friends does not have the capacity to provide the services these cats require to become accustomed to humans and prepare for adoption.

If you believe the kittens you have found meet these two criteria, please text our Director, Deborah MacDonald, at 510-909-4961.

Other Guidelines/Recommendations for Helping Kittens You’ve Found

If Angus & Friends is not able to assist the litter of kittens you’ve found, here are some things to consider and recommendations for ways you can help them:

   1. Are they ill or injured? If the kittens appear to be ill or injured, take them to a veterinarian as soon as possible. You also may want to contact a local rescue or shelter to see if they can help.

   2. Are they 8 weeks or older? 

     a) Yes - Kittens who are 8 weeks or older and friendly, are good candidates for adoption. If you are able, provide a foster home for them and contact a local rescue, like Angus & Friends, or shelter to see about help getting them adopted. If you cannot foster the kittens, the rescue or shelter may be able to place them in foster care. 

        Help Mom - You also can help the kittens’ mother. If she is friendly, she can be fostered and adopted. If she is not socialized to humans, you can help by contacting your local shelter or rescue to see if they have a TNR (Trap, Neuter, Return) program.

     b) No - If the kittens are under 4-5 weeks, they likely are not yet weaned and it’s best to leave them where they are and let their mother care for them until they are older. You can help by monitoring the family and providing a warm, dry shelter, as well as food and water. Once weaned, you can provide or find a foster home for them where they can be socialized and readied for adoption at 8 weeks or so.

   3. Is their mother with them? 

     a) Yes - If the kittens’ mother is with them, leave them with her. She is best able to care for the kittens, especially if they are under 4-5 weeks old and not yet weaned. You can help mom and kittens by providing a warm, dry shelter, as well as food and water. Once they are weaned, you can take the kittens (and Mom, if she is friendly) in as fosters and help socialize and prepare them for adoption. If you are unable to care for the family, contact a local rescue or shelter to see if they can assist.

     b) No - If you do not see the mother cat, don’t assume the kittens are orphans. She may be out hunting for food or simply hiding from you. Leave the kittens where they are and check periodically to see if mom returns in a few hours. If you have concerns about the kittens’ safety, move them to a safe location nearby where mom can still find them. If you do not see the mother cat return after close monitoring and the kittens appear to be in need of care — hungry, crying, dirty, etc. — they likely need a home and a caregiver. If you are unable to provide that care, contact a local rescue or shelter to see if they can help.

Safety First!

Though infrequently used, a cat carrier is vital to your cat’s safety. The right carrier should securely contain your feline and protect them when they travel from their home to the vet or other destinations. In selecting a carrier, consider the following:

• Durability - Sturdy plastic carriers are stronger and safer than fabric or cardboard options. Cats can easily tear through these materials with their claws and teeth, especially when frightened –– by uncontrolled dogs, honking horns, sirens, and other loud, unfamiliar noises. A determined cat also may be able to push its way through the zippers of a soft-sided carrier. Cats who escape may be injured and/or lost.
• Protection - Hard plastic carriers offer better protection than soft-sided or cardboard carriers during car rides, especially in cases of sudden stops or collisions. 

After putting your cat in the carrier, make sure all clips and latches are secured properly.  Double check to make sure the door is latched completely. 

Cleanliness

A hard plastic carrier is easier to clean than a soft-sided carrier if your cat has an accident or becomes car sick during a car ride.

Size and Comfort

In addition to being safe, your cat should be comfortable in their carrier. Typically, the carrier should be about 1 ½ times the size of your cat –– large enough for your cat to stand, sit, and turn around.  A carrier that is too large may result in your cat sliding from side to side.

Multiple kittens can be accommodated in small carriers. However, if you want to avoid having to buy another carrier when your kittens become full grown, try to choose a regular-sized carrier that you think will be appropriate for your kittens'

 predicted adult size. 

Putting a thick towel or blanket in the carrier will make it more comfortable for your cat or kitten and help prevent slipping during transport.

For longer trips, be sure your carrier is large enough for food and water bowls. And, for very long distances, you may want to acquire a larger crate (made for traveling with dogs) that can accommodate a litter box and a bed.

Single Occupancy is Best

Typically, it is best to have a carrier for each cat in your family, rather than having them share one large carrier. Even cats who are the best of friends may become aggressive if they become stressed during transport. An aggressive event in the carrier may create a negative association for your cat, which could make it much harder to get them into the carrier the next time.

A carrier is essential to the safe transportation of your cat. However, many cats have a fearful response to the cat carrier, which can make car trips to the vet and elsewhere stressful for your kitty — and for you!

Make Sure the Carrier is the Right Size

Many cats are afraid of dark, enclosed spaces, especially if they are not able to enter and turn around easily. Make sure your carrier is large enough for your cat to stand and turn around in.

Desensitize Your Cat to an Open Carrier

You can desensitize your cat to its carrier by making the carrier part of your cat’s normal environment.

• Leave the carrier out in a room where your cat spends time on a regular basis, so it becomes just another piece of “furniture” and smells familiar to your kitty. This will help make the carrier less scary for your cat.
• Remove the top and door of the carrier and line it with a towel, blanket, or kitty bed, making it into a comfortable “hangout” for your cat. 
• Place some of your kitty’s favorite toys in the “hangout” to spur their interest in checking out the carrier.
• Be patient; you may need to give your cat a few days or even weeks to get comfortable with the carrier.

Create a Positive Association with Food

Food can be very effective in creating a positive association to the carrier.

• Begin by placing food your cat likes near the entrance to the carrier and let your cat know the food is there.
• Once your kitty is eating the food at the entrance of the carrier, start to gradually move the food further in, until it is at the back of the carrier. 
• Continue to feed your kitty their meals in the open carrier for a while.
• Reward your kitty with their favorite treat when they go into the carrier on their own.

Add the Top, Then the Door, to the Carrier

When your cat is feeling comfortable with the open carrier, it’s time to put the top back on. It’s best to do this when your kitty is not around. Keep using food/treats to entice your cat into the closed carrier. 

When your cat is routinely entering the enclosed carrier, it’s time to move to the next step — putting the door back on. To avoid having your cat triggered by the sound of the door opening or closing, start by taping the door open. Next, when your cat is eating inside the carrier, try closing the door most of the way. If your kitty becomes distressed, open the door right away and consider waiting a bit to take the step of closing the door.

When your cat is OK with the door being shut, try locking it while they eat their food/treats. If and when your cat becomes agitated, open the door so they can exit if they want to. Keep extending the time your cat is comfortable eating inside the closed carrier. Eventually, your cat should associate the closed carrier with the enjoyment of eating their food.

Move the Carrier — and Your Kitty

Once your cat is OK being in the closed carrier, pick it up and then put it down, opening the door to allow your cat to exit. When your kitty becomes accustomed to this activity, next try carrying the carrier (with kitty inside) to another room and then opening the door. 

Repeating this step, which replicates what happens when you take your cat to the vet, helps teach your kitty that they are not going to the vet each time they get into the carrier. Comfort with this experience, which becomes predictable, should help your kitty manage it on the infrequent occasions when they go to the vet.

Next: The Car

When your kitty is feeling relaxed in the closed carrier for short periods (7-10 minutes), try taking them for a short car ride. Make sure your cat is comfortable by lining the carrier with a towel or blanket; an absorbent liner underneath is a good idea in case of an accident.

Encourage your cat to enter the carrier. If this is challenging, you may need to return to previous steps before trying a car ride.

The safest place for your cat’s carrier is on the floor of the vehicle, behind either the driver’s seat or the front passenger seat. Placing the carrier on the backseat and securing it with a seatbelt, while it may seem safe, can subject the carrier to a crushing blow in the case of a sudden stop or collision. Experts recommend that seatbelts be used to restrain your cat’s carrier only if the manufacturer provides crash test video illustrating the structural integrity of the carrier. Riding in the front seat is never a good idea for your cat, as airbags pose a serious threat of injury.

Covering the carrier with a sheet or other light fabric can reduce/remove extra visual stimuli, which may help your kitty feel safer and calmer. Be sure to allow for good airflow, however.

Take a short drive — the duration should be less time than your cat’s shortest comfortable time in the carrier thus far. Over the next week, take a daily drive with your kitty, each of longer duration than the day before. Continue the drives, less frequently over time, until your cat manages them stress free.

Risks of the Outdoors to Cats

Outdoor cats face numerous risks to their health and to their lives. Among these are:

• Other animals
  • Raccoons, skunks, feral cats, dogs and other animals live in every environment in California, and they will attack domestic cats. Attacks can cause cats serious — sometimes fatal — injuries and/or illnesses.
  • Coyotes and mountain lions: Coyotes live in every part of California, including densely-populated San Francisco. Mountain lions live in many parts of the state, in diverse habitats, including forests, foothills, coastal, rural and even urban areas. Both are known to attack cats.
• Fleas, ticks, and worms: Problems caused by these parasites can range from a minor annoyance to a life threatening illness for your cat.
• Cars, animal thieves, and cruel people: Outdoor cats are at risk of being abducted, injured, or killed by humans. Don’t let your cat be a victim.
• Toxins and poisons: Outdoor cats are at risk of toxic exposure. Some cats ingest antifreeze, which has a pleasant taste. Rodents who have consumed poisonous bait also pose risks to cats who may hunt and eat them.

Cats Pose Risks to Other Animals

Cats have a strong prey drive, which causes them to hunt birds and other small animals. Cats kill an estimated hundreds of millions of birds each year, as well as many other animals, such as rabbits, mice, and squirrels.

A Fenced Yard Won’t Keep a Cat Safe

A fence is unlikely to protect your cat. Cats can jump 5 to 6 times their body length – easily reaching heights of 6 feet or more. Cats also are great climbers, and can scale even higher fences. Even cats typically content in a fenced-in yard may bolt if startled by a loud noise or another animal. Further, a fence won’t keep other animals — cats, raccoons, etc. — out of your yard. 

Cats are not Happier Outside

Indoor-only cats can be as happy as cats who go outside  — without all the risks of the outdoors. Staying indoors also means your cat, who is naturally territorial, won’t have to compete for its territory, making its life a lot more comfortable. Most importantly, indoor cats have a much longer life expectancy (15-17 years) than outdoor cats (just 2-5 years). That being said, providing adequate enrichment for your indoor cat is important. (See FAQ “Play and Enrichment for Indoor Cats”

for ideas to keep your cat entertained and stimulated.)

Enrichment and Why Cats Need It

Living indoors is, without question, much safer for cats. (See FAQ “What An Indoor Cat Misses"). However, without enrichment activities, indoor cats may become bored or stressed, which could lead to their engaging in repetitive behaviors, such as overgrooming, pacing, meowing excessively, or even biting humans.

You can make life interesting for your cat by providing an enriching environment and fun activities. Enrichment activities are those that align with a cat’s instinctive behaviors, such as hunting, pouncing, scratching, and biting. These activities provide an opportunity for play, exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction – all of which are all important to a cat’s happiness. Enrichment also allows cats to engage in normal behaviors, such as scratching and scent marking. 

What Makes an Enriching Environment?

Toys  

• There is almost no limit to the number and type of cat toys available. It’s a good idea to have a wide variety of toys and to rotate their use so play time for your cat continues to be interesting.
• Toys that resemble real prey – birds, mice, bugs – in size, color, and texture, provide an opportunity for cats to “hunt.”
• Interactive wand toys need a human to make the “prey” move, while other toys are battery-powered or meant to be batted around by the cat. 
• It’s important that toys be large enough that they cannot be accidentally swallowed by the cat. Wand toys should never be left unattended, as some cats ingest strings or ropes. 
• Some cats enjoy gaming apps that are designed for them to bat the “prey” on the tablet’s touch screen.
• The best time to play is just before the time your cat would typically be active and/or seeking attention.

Puzzle Feeders

• There are a variety of cat treat toys and food puzzles that provide a range of challenges for cats. Some require the cat to push a treat-dispensing ball around, while others are more complex and call on your kitty’s problem-solving skills. 
• Hiding part of your cat’s daily food allotment and requiring them to “hunt” for their food can be a fun challenge for some cats. 
• Whatever food challenges you choose for your cat, it’s vital to ensure that your cat is finding and consuming the food, as cats can become seriously ill if they do not get their required calories each day.

Cat Trees and and Other Perches

• Cat trees are great for cats to climb, play on, hide in, and rest on. 
• Wall mounted cat shelves, stairs, and hammocks, etc. give your cat a variety of places to climb, jump, and lounge – all with a “bird’s eye” view of household activities.
• It’s best to locate cat trees and other cat-centric “furniture” in a room where you and your family spend time, so your cat has company while also enjoying a space designed just for them.

Visual Stimulation

• Perches that offer a view of the outdoors, especially those with a bird feeder or trees frequented by squirrels, etc., can provide entertainment for cats.
• Some felines enjoy watching videos of birds or animals that are made especially for cats.

Scratchers

• Scratching is a normal and enriching cat activity. It’s important to offer scratching posts and pads for your cat to use – instead of your furniture.

Catios

• Catios are outdoor enclosures that protect house cats from cars, other cats, wild animals, and other hazards.
• By allowing cats to safely enjoy the sights, smells and sounds of the outdoors, catios provide enrichment and stimulation for feline family members.
• It's important to use the proper materials when constructing a catio. These include strong, durable screening that is weather-resistant and designed to withstand bites, claws and the elements., as well as wood that is weather resistant and labeled "pet safe," which are not treated with chemicals that are toxic to pets.   Any paints or sealants used also should be labeled “pet-safe” and “non-toxic.” 
•  The catio should be escape-proof – no loose screens or gaps through which the cat could escape. In addition, the enclosure should be checked regularly for signs of wear and tear, e.g. rust, gaps, sagging screens, etc. 

(See: How to Build Your Own Catio.)

Too Much of a Good Thing?

Too many options for enrichment may be overwhelming for your cat, causing them to forego all of them. Therefore, it’s a good idea to limit the number of choices you provide your cat.

• Rotating options will help keep things fresh and stave off boredom.

Box Location

The best location for litter boxes is a quiet, private place where your cat will not be disturbed by people or other pets. Noisy areas, e.g., near the washing machine, furnace, by the kids’ playroom, near the garage, or under stairs, should be avoided, as your cat may be startled or frightened away from the box. Never place the litter box close to food and water dishes. If you live in a multi-story house, it is best to have a box on each level.

Box Cleanliness

Cats like a clean litter box and some cats will refuse to use a box that is not well maintained. Litter boxes should be scooped at least once daily – more often, depending on your cats’ habits and how many cats and boxes you have.

Boxes should be cleaned at least once a week, including throwing out all the litter, scrubbing the box completely with an effective but non-perfumed cleaner (e.g. mild dish liquid), and filling it with fresh litter. Most litter boxes are plastic and trap odors; therefore, they should be replaced once a year.

Type of Litter

Many cats have preferences regarding the litter in their boxes. Typically, litter that does not have a strong scent is preferable, as cats are very sensitive to odors. Preferred texture, – e.g., fine-grained vs. pellets, clumping vs. non-clumping – also varies among cats. You may need to experiment to see what your cat likes best. Once you find a litter your cat is comfortable with, don’t change types or brands. Non-clumping litters are safest for kittens under 4 months as they may eat the litter. Clumping litter can cause a serious blockage in their intestines.

Depth of Litter

Most cats prefer a litter depth of about two inches. Some long-haired cats prefer less litter and a smooth, slick surface, such as the bottom of the box. You may need to experiment to find your cat’s preference for how much litter to use.

Number of Boxes

A good guideline is to have at least as many boxes as you have cats, plus one extra. Some will refuse to use a box that another cat has already soiled. Even if you have only one cat, an extra box is a good idea, as some cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another. 

Type and Size of Litter Box

Many cats dislike covered boxes because they make it difficult to maneuver inside and easier for rival cats to ambush the user as they exit. Because cats are not only hunters but also prey animals, they need to be able to see what’s happening around them. Larger cats will need a larger box. The box should be at least 1 ½ times the length and width of your cat. If even a “jumbo-sized” box is not large enough, try using a large plastic storage bin with a “door” cut into it, or under-the-bed storage bins, which have lower sides and may not need to be cut. Kittens need a low-sided litter box that they can enter and exit easily.

Training Kittens to Use the Litter Box

Kittens may be litter box trained starting at about four weeks of age. They are innately predisposed to use loose material as their litter and typically will discover and use a nearby litter box. Kittens won’t know to search the entire home to find the box, so it’s best to keep them in a confined space initially, as they adjust to their home and to using their litter box. 

You can help your kitten by placing it in the litter box as an introduction. They may instinctively start pawing at the litter or even using the litter box. Rewarding your kitten with praise and a treat also may help to speed the learning process.  Rewards must be given immediately after they leave the box so they associate the activity with the reward.

If your kitten doesn't use the litter box in the initial introduction, try placing them in the box each time they eat, drink, or wake up from a nap until they begin using the box on their own. Once your kitten has access to the entire home, show them the locations of each litter box and let your kitten sniff them. As noted above, non-clumping litters are safest for kittens under 4 months.

Addressing Litter Box Problems

Rule out illness: If your cat stops using the litter box, your first call should always be to your veterinarian. Many medical conditions can cause a change in litter box habits and these possibilities must be considered first. If your veterinarian determines your cat is healthy, there are a number of things to consider:

Litter box setup: 

• Is the size right? Is it large enough for your cat? Are the sides low enough for your kitten or elderly cat to get over? 
• Is the litter right? You may want to set up several litter boxes with different materials – e.g. clumping litter, non-clumping litter, newspaper, sand, sawdust, etc. – and see if your cat prefers one over the others. 
• Is the litter depth right? Your cat may prefer more or less litter in the box.  

Box cleanliness: You may need to scoop the boxes more frequently and clean them thoroughly more often.

Behavioral issues: Litter box problems often can be resolved using behavior modification techniques. Consider contacting an animal behavior professional who is knowledgeable about and experienced in working with cats.

Don’t punish your cat: Verbal or physical punishment should never be employed. Punishing your pet for a natural act also may cause them to become secretive or fearful about elimination, which can make the problem worse. Worse, it can destroy your cat’s trust in you. The best response is to clean the area where the accident occurred, including using an enzymatic cleaner, which will help eliminate the odor associated with an accident. 

A Natural, Healthy Feline Behavior

Cats love to scratch and this normal behavior serves a number of purposes for them, including:

• “Marking” their territory with visual and scent markers (from glands in their paw pads)
• Keeping their nails in good shape and shedding claw sheaths
• Allowing for a satisfying, full-body stretch
• Providing stress relief

Cats want their “messages” to be seen and smelled, which often leads them to scratch in high-traffic areas, often on furniture and/or rugs. There are numerous ways to address unwanted scratching behaviors.

Provide Appropriate Places to Scratch

Scratching posts and pads give cats an attractive option to your furniture and carpets. Some cats prefer vertical scratchers, and some horizontal. Most will use either. You may need to experiment to find the type of scratcher your kitty will use.

Vertical posts should be tall and sturdy enough for the cat to stretch out and lean against without the post falling over. Sisal (rope) scratchers are ideal as they are hard wearing; cardboard scratchers are also good as they are cheap and widely available. 

Try placing scratchers near where your cat has already shown interest in scratching (e.g., furniture). Applying catnip and/or playing with your cat near the scratcher may increase their interest in the scratching post/pad. Praise appropriate scratching with attention and treats.

Make Inappropriate Scratching Unappealing

You can stop inappropriate scratching by placing double-stick tape or foil, which feel unpleasant on your cat’s paws, on furniture and other at-risk areas.

Clip Your Cat’s Claws

Since one of the reasons your cat scratches is to groom their nails, performing regular nail trims will help decrease your cat’s need to scratch. Most cats will let you trim their claws; if your cat is difficult, consult your vet or local pet store about trimming services.

Never Declaw!

Declawing is the feline equivalent of amputating the upper joint of the fingers (this includes laser declawing, which is the same, brutal operation performed using lasers). (See FAQ "Declawing: What it is and Why You Should Never Do it to Your Cat.") The operation can cause lasting physical problems for cats, including paw and back pain, infection, tissue necrosis (death), and lameness. Improperly removed claws can regrow, causing nerve damage and bone spurs.

Declawing also frequently results in behavioral changes in cats. Pain associated with scratching in the litterbox can result in litterbox aversion; some cats may become biters because they are in pain and no longer have their claws for defense. In addition, if a declawed cat gets outside, it will be completely defenseless.

Several states and a number of cities have outlawed declawing. If you need further advice about dealing with unwanted scratching behavior, contact a cat behaviorist or your local rescue group for suggestions.

What is Declawing?

Declawing (onychectomy) entails the surgical amputation of part or all of the bone attached to the claw of each of a cat’s front toes, including the nail bed and claw. This procedure is akin to cutting off your finger at the last knuckle. The standard method for declawing is amputation with a scalpel or guillotine clipper; another method entails use of a laser, which cuts through tissue, heating and vaporizing it. After the amputation, the wounds are closed with stitches or surgical glue and the cat’s paws are bandaged. Declawing is performed under general anesthesia.

How Declawing Affects A Cat’s Normal Behaviors and Activity

Loss of a Vital Tool for Defense - Cats rely on their claws for both defense and offense, using them to fend off or escape from people or animals who are hurting or threatening them. They also use their claws to capture prey. If your cat were ever to escape your home, it would be defenseless without its claws.

Inability to Stretch and Tone Muscles - Cats stretch the muscles in their legs, back, shoulders, and paws by gripping a surface and pulling back against their own clawhold. Declawed cats are unable to grip and, therefore, are denied their only means of stretching and toning their back and shoulder muscles.

Denial of Helpful Rituals - Cats ritualistically scratch surfaces that offer resistance, marking their territory, exercising muscles that normally are used for hunting, and removing worn sheaths from their nails. Scratching also helps to relieve stress. Declawed cats are unable to engage in these normal feline behaviors.

Health Risks Associated with Declawing

There are numerous health risks associated with declawing, both in the immediate and long term.

Surgical and post-surgical complications may include:

• Allergic reactions to the anesthesia
• Pneumonia
• Stroke/embolism
• Cardiac arrest
• Damage to the throat from the breathing tube
• Nerve damage
• Bleeding
• Infection
• Tissue necrosis
• Bone chips that prevent healing
• Lameness 
• Abscess
• Excruciating pain
• Death

Chronic impacts may include:

• Neuropathic pain (in which the nerve signals abnormally to the brain)
• Inflammation
• Infection
• Back pain - Cats walk on their toes with the toes helping the foot meet the ground at the proper angle to keep their leg, shoulder, and back muscles and their joints properly aligned. Amputation of the last digits of the toes changes how a cat’s feet meet the ground, which can cause back pain, much like a human wearing a pair of uncomfortable shoes.

Behavioral Issues Related to Declawing

In addition to health problems, declawed cats also may develop behavioral issues, including litterbox aversion and biting. Typically, after the amputation, shredded newspaper is used in the litterbox instead of litter, which can irritate the cat’s declawed paws. The combination of the pain the cat experiences when scratching in the box, along with the unfamiliar litter substitute, may cause the cat to avoid the litterbox – sometimes permanently. Further, without their claws for defense, some cats become biters.

Efforts to Ban Declawing

Several states have banned declawing, with limited exceptions related to medical necessity. New York, Maryland, Virginia, Massachusetts, as well as Washington, DC all have passed anti-declawing legislation. Cities that have prohibited the practice include a number in California – Los Angeles, San Francisco, West Hollywood, Santa Monica, Beverly Hills, Berkeley, Culver City, and Burbank. In addition, there are jurisdictional bans in Denver, CO, Pittsburgh, PA, Madison, WI, and Austin, TX.

In addition, the states of Arizona, California, Florida, Illinois, Michigan, Minnesota, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Rhode Island also have introduced legislation to ban declawing.

Alternatives to Manage Scratching Behaviors (See FAQ “Scratching: A Normal Cat Behavior.")

Scratching is a natural cat behavior. If a cat is destroying furniture or causing scratching injuries, there are a number of means of mitigation, including: 

• Trimming nails on a regular basis
• Providing scratching posts and pads
• Applying double-sided tape tin foil, or other deterrents to furniture
• Employing behavior modification techniques

Resources

For more information about declawing, please see:

• The Paw Project
•  This video from animal advocate, cat behavior and wellness expert, and New York Times best-selling author, Jackson Galaxy: “The Truth About Declawing Cats” 

Routine Veterinary Care is Key

Regular veterinary care is vital to your cat’s health. Your cat should have a check up at least once a year, even if they seem perfectly healthy. Why? Cats are experts at masking symptoms, which means you may be unaware of health issues for months – or even years. A regular visit to the veterinarian can result in early detection and treatment of an illness, injury, or medical condition, preventing needless suffering and potentially saving your cat’s life. 

For older cats, semi-annual visits to the veterinarian are recommended. One of the two yearly visits typically entails a full geriatric exam with blood work and x-rays, while the other consists of a less intensive checkup.

Preventative Care

Your vet can help keep your cat healthy by providing essential preventative care including: vaccines to protect against disease transmission; treatments to ward off parasites; dental care; and blood work and urinalysis to check for abnormalities.

• Vaccines  
  • Essential vaccines include Rabies and Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia (FVRCP). (Note: It’s best to consult with your veterinarian about additional vaccines they may recommend.)
  • Vaccines are especially important if your cat spends time outdoors.
  • Boarding facilities require cats using their services to be vaccinated.
• Parasite Prevention
  • Common parasites include fleas, ticks, heartworms, roundworms, and lice.
  • Treatments may be topical or in pill form and some require prescriptions, which only your veterinarian can provide.
• Blood Work/Urinalysis
  • Routine blood work can determine if your cat is suffering from dehydration, infection, or anemia and help assess kidney and liver function.
  • Urinalysis is important in detecting early-stage kidney disease, which can be slowed by a special renal diet. This type of food requires a veterinary prescription.
• Diet and Weight Control
  • Maintaining a healthy weight is important for your cat’s overall wellbeing. Your veterinarian can help you determine the appropriate type and amount of food your cat needs.
  • Your veterinarian also can guide you in helping your cat with weight reduction.
• Behavioral Advice
  • Veterinarians can help assess your cat’s behavioral issues and provide direction in addressing problems such as aggression or litterbox avoidance.

Overcoming Challenges to the Vet Visit

• Many cats become stressed by vet visits because they entail transportation in the cat carrier. Acclimating your cat to its carrier can help alleviate this stress. (See FAQ “Acclimating Your Cat to its Carrier”.)
• Visiting a cat-only veterinary practice may be helpful. These practices tend to be quieter and calmer and also are free of other animals whose scents and sounds may cause stress in cats.
• Feline-only practices also have veterinarians who have advanced training in feline medicine and services tailored to cats.

Pet Insurance

• Pet insurance may be an option to consider when planning for your cat’s health care needs, which can be expensive. 
• Unlike health insurance for humans, pet insurance plans typically require that you pay the veterinarian directly and then submit a claim to your insurance company to be reimbursed.
• Pet insurance policies vary widely in terms of what they cover. For example, some plans cover accidents but not illnesses. Some plans cover wellness services only (annual physical exams, vaccines, dental cleaning, spay/neuter services), while others have more expansive coverage.
• When reviewing insurance plans, it’s important to consider what types of conditions are covered, e.g., broken bones, bites, diabetes, allergies, ear infections, tooth decay, behavioral issues, etc. It also is important to review what services are provided, including:
  • Diagnostics - Lab tests, X-rays, ultrasounds, MRIs, CAT scans
  • Treatments - Medications, radiation, chemotherapy, surgery
  • Hospitalization
  • Alternative therapies - acupuncture, rehabilitative treatment, etc.
• Pet insurance does not cover pre-existing conditions, even if they have not been formally diagnosed by a veterinarian.
• The cost of pet insurance varies based on what it covers and on the age of your pet, with coverage for seniors typically more expensive.
• It’s important to do some research when considering pet insurance. You may want to seek recommendations from your veterinarian and/or from family and friends. In addition, the following resources may be helpful: 
  • Is Pet Insurance Worth It? What to Know About Dog and Cat Coverage, Best Friends
  • Is Pet Insurance Worth It?, PetMD